Le Gamin a Neighborhood Gem for Vegetarians

There is no shortage of restaurant reviews in local media, from the Times to user review sites like Yelp to neighborhood blogs. But reading about succulent pork shoulder or grilled mahi-mahi doesn’t offer much if you're a vegetarian.

With that in mind, I introduce "Meatless Mondays," a series catering to the Prospect Heights vegetarian as well as those who have decided to give up meat once a week as part of the Meatless Mondays movement.

The series will tell you which restaurants have the best vegetarian offerings and which will relegate you to a salad. It will also offer recipes and interviews with area chefs.

To kick things off I review  – which translates from the French as “The Kid” –  on Vanderbilt between Bergen and Dean. It’s unpretentious, reasonably priced, and always good. It’s the quintessential neighborhood French joint. The lights are dim but not too dark. The decor is low key with wicker chairs, wood tables without tablecloths, wide plank floors, and various French artworks and items on exposed brick walls.

As my companion and I sat, tap water came to the table in large old bottles, a touch I always appreciate at restaurants so you don’t have to wait until your server sees you if you need a refill. A few minutes later some complimentary French bread and pleasingly soft butter arrived.  

I started off with a small salad of greens, shaved apple and carrots, walnuts, grapes, and delectable crouton slices topped with generous wedges of warm brie. There was just a touch of house dressing to add some flavor but not overwhelm the ingredients. The warmth and creaminess of the brie offered a wonderful contrast with the chill and crunchiness of the salad. Further, the brie’s saltiness nicely balanced the sweetness of the carrots, apples, and grapes. (This salad also is offered minus the brie for two-dollars less.)

A plate of endive, Roquefort, apple, and walnut is another salad option without meat. If you're craving a hot appetizer terrific vegetarian soups are also on offer, including a vegetable puree, and the expected French onion.

For her entree, my companion ordered a mushroom and goat cheese quiche, a special of the day. It was served very warm, which I prefer, though I know room temperature is thought by some to be the appropriate way to serve quiche. It was fluffy, yet had a substantial heft to it. Its taste was simple and savory. And, like the salad, you could taste and appreciate the ingredients independently.

I ordered my usual, the mademoiselle vegetarian, a hot sandwich of roasted red peppers, caramelized onion, sautéed mushrooms, and manchego cheese. All the tables are topped with Dijon mustard in varying small glass containers with petite spoons, and I slathered a generous helping of it on the mademoiselle. It adds just the right kick. The bread was pleasingly French, with a chewy white interior and flaky/crunchy exterior that makes you work a little. The veggies were warm and soft but not overdone, and the savory cheese combined with the zip of the Dijon made it a full-flavored and textured experience. It was also very filling.

I’m not much of a wine buff, but I’ve always been pleased with the reds Le Gemin offers. On this occasion, however, which was one of the all-too-many paralyzingly Arctic nights this winter, I opted for a cup of English breakfast tea. The mugs are one of the rare missteps at the restaurant for one simple reason: they don’t have handles. It’s just common sense here, folks - when drinking a burning hot beverage, a handle is much appreciated. The mugs are huge, and classy looking, but are more appropriate as soup bowls. When the tea arrived I was unable to hold the cup for what seemed like an eternity. When it did cool enough for me to pick up, the tea was a perfect soothing compliment and palate cleanser while finishing off the mademoiselle.

Though we didn’t order crepes for our entrees, Le Gamin offers many and some consider them the specialty of the restaurant. The entree crepes are all made with buckwheat flour which is heartier and healthier than white flour, and adds a complexity and sweetness to the dough. In addition to leek and goat cheese, and caramelized onion, tomato and brie crepes, they offer a make-your-own option with a long list of meats, cheeses, and vegetables to choose from. I’ve had crepes at Le Gamin before and they’re excellent.

My companion did, however, end her meal with a crepe, the simple Beurre Sucre, aka butter and sugar. The Beurre Sucre was pleasing enough, though butter and sugar on dough is a bit boring for me. I opted for the warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream. This too was a bit simple for me - it seemed to basically be a mound of apple chunks on top of thin dough. There was a drizzle of caramel on them which added a blast of flavor and I felt myself wishing there was more of it.

Though the deserts weren’t spectacular, they were a pleasant enough way to end a reasonably priced, reasonably healthy, and quite tasty vegetarian meal.

With a good variety of non-meat apps and entrees, plus the make-your-own crepe option, Le Gamin is one of my favorite places for a quiet, reliable meal (though if you're a vegan and need to skip the cheese, getting sufficient complete protein here may be difficult).  

As a post script I should mention that our waitress was terrific. She was friendly and helpful, and though it took a while to get the check we didn’t mind. Sometimes it’s good to be forced to slow down.

As we headed out I heard the opening chords of “Save Tonight” an Eagle Eye Cherry song from the '90s that I’ve always dug and hadn’t heard in years. But as I made my way toward the door I realized it wasn’t that song after all. Regardless, it put a smile on my face.